Sini Saavala, also from Finland, scooped up the inaugural L’Atelier des Matières Prize, which comes with 10,000 euros worth of fabrics and leathers from L’Atelier des Matières, a structure created in 2019 on Chanel’s initiative and which collects unsold goods and unused materials to turn them back into usable resources. While that was the situational component to the trend, Hsu also connected it to a ’90s trend of positivity and crafts-oriented personal expression. She felt that the pandemic and its isolation caused by lockdowns and restricted travels globally had pushed many to “start exploring within what’s available to them,” going back to “something quite primitive but also quite accessible” by learning crafts either online or from older family members.
Jury member Hsu noted that craftsmanship was a recurring theme among the 2022 crop of contestants. The Le19M Métiers d’Arts Prize in partnership with Chanel went to German designer Valentin Lessner, who was also singled out for the Mercedes-Benz Sustainability Prize for best applying the sustainable practices given by Fashion Open Studio, a nonprofit organization campaigning for a more sustainable luxury industry.
He hoped they would take from him the idea that “you just have to believe in yourself and go for it.” In his eyes, it’s important to understand that “the moment you start asking yourself too many questions based on by other people,” creatives get in trouble. “They’re really talking about the future of society, about loving each other, respecting each other, being free, doing whatever you want, as long as you respect each other,” on top of bringing “their own personal answer” to address “fashion one of the topmost polluting industries,” he explained. Overall Martens was impressed by a generation that “regardless of the aesthetics, or the story, or the background, all embedded straight into the fundamental part of their work, social and environmental sustainability.” In coming months Hytönen will be applying her learnings from Hyères by working on two commercially available capsule collections that will be commercialized in the second half of 2023, one with Galeries Lafayette and the other with incoming partner Icicle. For now, she’s in no rush as “patience is superpower” - stringing 25,000 beads certainly attested to that. “My idea was always that I would work for myself but I didn’t expect it to happen so soon,” she said, noting that she wanted, for example, to find ways to combine her craftsmanship and more commercial products.
Soft-spoken Hytönen felt the experience had already helped her grow from “being the shyest girl you’d ever meet.” Martens lauded the quality of the 25-year-old Hytönen’s collection with a “very complete collection plan that nonetheless showed extreme creativity.” Jenny Hytönen Luc Bertrand/Courtesy of Villa Noailles
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